2012 Domaine Bart Marsannay, Les Saint Jacques, Burgundy, France ($38)
Wow! This village in the extreme north of the Côte de Nuits (like, north of Gevrey-Chambertin) never used to make wine this good. But I love this Marsannay! And if you’re enthralled with the lightness of Red Burgundy, and the way complex Pinot Noir flavors can soar above the lightness…you may be enthralled too! Light-hued ruby-red in the glass. Gorgeous Pinot nose, with, if my guess is correct, lots of wood-inflected spice: nutmeg, clove, etc., with a little roast coffee to back up the wood barrel theory. The nose has more mass appeal than the palate…because the wine is extremely light-textured in the mouth…and some California-style wine-lovers won’t know what to make of it. But it will appeal mightily to Burgundy geeks! Great carry-over of spice aromas, wonderfully jumpy acidity, the whole converging on the finish with smoothness, surprising depth, and the slightest touch of structure.
Wine4Food
This is red bistro wine non pareil: charcuterie, frisée salad, garlic sausage with potato salad, roast chicken, etc. Boffo!
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