When I was planning my first trip to Hong Kong, about 20 years ago, the head chef of a very elegant and famous Cantonese restaurant in that great eating city wrote to me, telling me how proud he was of his “stork.” He mentioned the “stork” several times in his letter, and I was tingling with the anticipation of tasting something completely new. When I finally got to his restaurant, he brought out the “stork”—a small bowl of nearly clear liquid. I soon caught on that when he wrote “stork”—he meant “stock!” But I wasn’t disappointed in the least—that’s how good this stock was. And I understood how a Hong Kong chef, out of all the amazing things he creates, would brag first of all about his stock. I’ve always loved a great Cantonese stock, and my near-stork experience focused me even more on the magic of multiple meaty essences rising as heavenly vapor towards your nose. Problem is, in restaurant kitchens today, they’re just not taking the time they used to to prepare massively delicious stock. You can tell from the wonton soup at middling Chinese restaurants across the U.S.; the broth, once wonderful in many places, is now almost universally one-dimensional. So I set out to create a stock at home that had the old wow factor. My result is good, seriously good. Try it! The only problem with it is its call for some exotic Chinese ingredients. If you live near a good Chinese neighborhood, you’re in. If you don’t, I’ve suggested some substitute ingredients below that will still make a damned good stork.
Makes about 8 cups, enough for 4 big bowls of soup
12 ounces chicken legs or thighs
8 ounces chicken feet (optional; if not using, add 8 ounces of chicken)
12 ounces Chinese cured salt duck (substitute: one leg-thigh of confit de canard)
1 ounce Smithfield ham, with skin and bone (substitute: prosciutto)
1 ounce Chinese dried fish, “do how” (substitute: unsoaked salt cod)
½ ounce dried Chinese mushrooms
2 whole scallions, trimmed
1 ounce fresh ginger root, peeled
2 ounces broccoli stalk
1½ teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon MSG (optional, of course, but I believe in it)
scant 8 cups of hot water
1. Combine all ingredients in large saucepan, and place over high heat. As soon as the water starts to boil, lower heat so that the water comes down to a very lazy simmer, barely moving on the surface. Cook, uncovered, for 3 hours, skimming off foam as it rises to the top. Strain, and, if desired, de-grease.
NOTE: Fresh Chinese egg noodles or dried Chinese egg noodles would be great in this broth. A good brand of the dried is the On Lee Whole Egg Noodle ($1.20 for 16 oz., available at Kam Man in Manhattan). Made in Hong Kong, these excellent noodles come in tightly packed nests, and top the competition in chew: they cook up to be really separate strands, with an extra edge of resiliency. Sometimes, when serving this seductive, elaborate liquid, I like to make a really big deal. Snipped greens would be a great last-minute addition (spinach or bok choy leaves), as would whole shrimp, cubes of bean curd, and a few bean sprouts. If you happen to have some dumplings on hand…so much the better!
Image: Jeff/Flickr Creative Commons
