The Upper West Side of Manhattan is a great breakfast area—for here, many of the traditions of the old Jewish immigrants to New York are preserved. The “temple” of this cooking is Barney Greengrass, founded in 1908, where you can get an amazing array of smoked fish, bagels, bialys and egg dishes on a Sunday morning (or any morning!) My favorite egg dish there is a startling, eye-opening concoction made with a horseradish-cheddar cheese spread that is manufactured in Wisconsin. You must try the following unusual combo of creamy, eggy, cheesy…and pungently hot!
Makes a large portion for one hungry person
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 extra-large eggs, beaten well
1/2 cup Extra Hot Horseradish Cheese Spread (see NOTE)
1. Melt the butter over medium-high heat in a heavy skillet. Add the eggs and the Cheese Spread; working with a large metal spoon, immediately start mashing down the cheese. Over the course of the next 1-2 minutes, you will keep the eggs and the cheese in almost constant motion: swirling, scrambling, mashing cheese—until you have a pan full of soft scrambled eggs, with large flaps, and with some discrete veins of Cheese Spread showing. Try not to brown the eggs; golden and creamy is the ideal.
NOTE: You can easily acquire through the mail the Cheese Spread used by Barney Greengrass. It costs $1.99 for a one-lb. tub, and comes from:
Old Fashioned Foods
650 Furnace St.
P.O. Box 111
Mayville, WI 53050
You can also make your own version using WisPride Sharp Cheddar Cheese Food, a cheese spread available in supermarkets everywhere, and prepared horseradish; your version won’t have the pungency of the original (Old Fashioned Foods uses horseradish oil), but you may prefer that! Here’s the recipe:
Horseradish Cheese Spread
1/2 cup WisPride Sharp Cheddar Cheese Food
scant 3 tablespoons prepared extra hot horseradish
1. Mix ingredients together. Let sit for 30 minutes for flavor to develop.
Photo from Sodahead.com and Hamburger Helper/Flickr Creative Commons