2010 Chehalem Pinot Noir, Ridgecrest Vineyards, Ribbon Ridge, Oregon ($48)
Here’s the problem in the New World/Old World Pinot Noir game: most of the Oregon/California stuff seems to go for dramatic effects (ripeness, oak) no matter what the pedigree of the wine, whereas red Burgundy is subtle as hell at the lower appellations (and prices), rising to drama only as we get into expensive terroiritory (Premiers Crus and Grand Crus). It makes everything fiendishly confusing, particularly at a blind tasting. This winner, from Chehalem in Oregon, will confound many a guesser. Pretty garnet-ruby…and especially pretty because it’s light in color (as Burgundy often is). Fascinating nose on the Pinot Noir crossroads of the New World and the Old World. There is a lot of the geranium, pickly character that sometimes emerges in New World Pinot Noir…but deep, mysterious, chocolatey notes seem more Burgundian. Take a sip, and oak-provided spice jumps into the picture, telling a tale of either big-deal Burgundy, or California as usual. Whatever you’d make of it at a blind tasting, it has character, depth, and excellent balance for either a New World Pinot, or a fairly fat Burgundy. The Ridgecrest line is the most expensive of Chehalem’s Pinot lines.
Wine4Food
A little fruit-sweetness makes this a perfect match for meat dishes carrying a hint of sugar, like Sloppy Joes, or glazed chicken.
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