2010 Veranda Pinot Noir, Bio Bio Valley, Chile ($18)
When American wine-lovers think of Chile, they think of Sauvignon Blanc from cool-weather spots like Casablanca (especially Leyda), and they think of brawny New World reds, especially the old Bordeaux varietal now associated only with its chunky life in Chile, Carmenère. On a trip to Chile almost three years ago, I visited a new wine-making region…where they make something completely different: the region is the Bio Bio Valley, far to the south of most other Chilean regions (which means it’s colder). And the go-to grape, the grape that a large force of Burgundians has been planting in Bio Bio, is Pinot Noir. Yes! Chilean Pinot Noir! If your label says Bio Bio, chances are the wine will be at least very good. This 2010 Veranda, made by the Burgundy-born leaders in the Bio Bio Burgundy push, is a great example of what the region can do. Showing a medium cherry-garnet in the glass, the waves of aroma start coming across in Burgundy fashion. There is none of the exaggeration of New World Pinot: no geranium metallic quality, no lactic pickly quality; no jammy fruit. It is the cherry that dominates the nose, with a side-order of pomegranate. On the palate, the wine is rich, but not New-World rich; the magical velvety feel is very much like that of a good Burgundian Premier Cru in a good vintage, with a pleasing amount of almost-sweet fruit. And then there’s the finish, long and spicy, giving you lots to ponder about ocean-jumping French varietals.
Wine4Food
I see this as a marvelously flexible wine for food, particularly those foods that could use the cover of a rich Pinot. I love it with grilled fish, and it’d be top of mind when a red-meat dish has a teeny-weeny sweetness to it.
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