A Wine That Can Drive People to Fake It: Merlot

A Wine That Can Drive People to Fake It: Merlot 1024 683 Siobhan Wallace

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One of the biggest misconceptions about wine is that you have to shell out a lot of money for the good stuff. This false impression comes from varietals like Merlot. When you hear of $1,000 bottles of French wine, prices that drive people to make fakes, they are often Merlots from Bordeaux, France. And yet, experts slight Merlot due to its lack of complexity. They shouldn’t though, as Merlot is not only a backbone of the wine industry but when done right, it can produce a wine almost anyone will love.

Old World Merlot

Bordeaux is where the best Merlots are produced simply because that’s where the grape was born about 200 years ago. Winemakers in this region have had centuries to perfect the vine, harvest, and fermentation. Now, Merlot is one of the most planted vines in the world, the second most popular red grape in the United States, and can be found almost everywhere wine grapes are grown. The resulting vino is often very fruity with dark plum and cherry notes, and less tannic (the drying sensation) than you would think. It’s those soft tannins that make experts chose the other big red, Cabernet Sauvignon, over Merlot as the compounds tend to make a wine feel “bolder.” When searching for Bordeaux Merlots, you want to look for wines from the Right Bank, namely Fronsac, St. Emilion and Pomerol. Even when opting for cheaper bottles, you’re looking at $30 – $40 for something from Bordeaux. Need something under $30? Look for Merlots from other parts of France like the Languedoc, or for bottles from northern Italy, specifically from Alto Adige-Trentino and Friuli-Venezia Giulia. They’ll have the same flavor profiles and smooth tannins, and will be more than good enough for dinner with friends.

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New World Merlot

Good Merlots from outside of Europe are closely associated with California, but this is a case where going to another state might be to your benefit. Washington’s vineyards have been producing some of the best American vintages. They’re still very heavy on the fruit with the classic ripe cherry flavor but have a little bit of red and dark berries mixed in, with balanced tannins and acid. Look for bottles out of the Columbia Valley. Another place producing great Merlot is the North Fork of Long Island. These have a lushness to the fruit mixed with a bit of tartness from the acidity. Maybe they get a little punchy from being around the Long Island denizens? Anticipate paying at least $30 and sometimes $40+ per bottle. Further afield, Merlots from Hawke’s Bay on the North Island of New Zealand are consistently getting accolades for their expression of the grape. The good ones will have almost a rich velvet feel, and are excellent for tasting Merlot’s spices and dark chocolate characteristics. You can find great vintages for less than $30 – $40, and be open to those blended with some Cabernet Sauvignon.

But what’s really great about Merlot is its value when pairing with food. If your meal involves meat, chicken, or pork—especially burgers, Merlot loves burgers more than we do—odds are it’ll work great. Vegetarians can get in on the action with cheesy, rich dishes. Either way, it’s about time for Merlot to get its well-deserved moment of glory, even if it’s usually relegated to your house red blend.

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