ALL ABOUT…UHUDLER!!!!
In Austria, I ran into one of the biggest, weirdest, most delicious wine stories of my life last week.
In a word…it is Uhudler (pronounced pretty much as it looks, OOO-hoo-dler).
As you may know, my foray into Austria was a rosé quest; I want to bring in something really special for Summer 2014, not your usual Provençal blah blah blah. On my last trips to Austria, I tasted delicious rosé from the southern wine regions…rosés that most Americans (including me, then) knew nothing about. I set out last week to find those rosés, and their best producers.
Double score!
The first rosé is Schilcher, which comes from the west part of Styria, also known as Westeiermark. Last week I told you about the delicious food in this region. Now you may know the full truth: there’s delicious rosé as well to wash it all down. Schilcher rosé is light, crisp, tingling with acidity, the last thing from boring on a hot summer’s day. Gimme Schilcher! I will give YOU Schilcher next summer!
But, in a way, the rosé from neighboring Sudbürgenland has even more spectac to it. I don’t have the full story yet, with all details…. but here’s the rough from last week.
In the 19th century, when American rootstock came to Europe to save the world from phylloxera…. European vines (like Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet) were grafted onto the American rootstock.
But some crazy guys in Südburgenland decided to plant actual American vines…like Concord! A decision taken virtually nowhere else in Europe!
They started making a delicious dry rosé from the American vines…but the guys making traditional Austrian wine didn’t appreciate the competition. So they started spreading really nasty rumors about Uhudler…like it’s bad for you!
Along came Hitler, who really put the kaibosh on Uhudler. It was BANNED in Austria in the 1930s…this upstart AMERICAN wine!
But locals love it, and illegal production continued for about 60 years (black-market Uhudler!)
Then, in 1992, the decision was reversed: Uhudler rosé became legal again.
Today, it’s a boom wine in Austria.
Me, I adore it: big, “foxy,” strawberry-like aromas, with a touch of something oily, like “diesel,” when its young. But a really crisp, dry, low-alcohol palate. Perfect rosé!
Americans? No one has ever heard of it! My compatriots…the time is now!!!
In summer, 2014, you’ll be seeing (and buying, if you wish!) some of the best 2013 Uhudler.
For now…. please enjoy these photo images of my merry time in Uhudler country!
