2002 Bernkasteler Graben Riesling Spätlese, Weingut Franz Dahm ($31)
“Franz Dahm is an old-world gentleman, making gentlemanly, old-world wines tucked away in the heart of the gorgeous village of Bernkastel. I was so lucky to discover him! His wines are classic Mosel all the way: light, elegant, polished, refined.
“Extraordinarily light straw. Gorgeous petrol nose, with a little wool to it. No doubt about it: a lightly sweet wine, as a Spatlese is supposed to be…but in the most appealing, lifted way. Just right with salty-oily foods, like smoked salmon and ham. Fabulous cheese wine, too—especially firm goat’s and runny cow’s milk cheeses. Plus…the iconic German summer-in-the-garden sipper, all by itself.”
-David Rosengarten
