2011 Graacher Riesling Hochgewächs Trocken, Weingut Kees-Kieren, Mosel ($24)
“Extremely light and pale straw-green, befitting its youth. Exuberant fruit nose, almost verging on melon and banana. A light Mosel that, in the midst of its evanescence, lands on the palate with structure. Perhaps a touch lower in acidity than the other Mosels, but with a long white-fruit finish. Excellent wine for crunchy, salty foods.” -David Rosengarten
Three hundred years of family tradition stand behind this marvelous Middle Mosel winery, making a range of wines from their steep, stony slopes. I like the combination the winemakers find in their dry and off-dry wines featuring Mosel delicacy, plus a little extra framing.