2012 Fleurie, L’Alchimiste, Anne-Sophie Dubois, Beaujolais, France ($27)
On Saturday night, when the weather in NYC showed a hint of chill, I was hell-bent on having a roast chicken with some French red wine in a bistro-like place. I ended up at Rotisserie Georgette, which opened a few years back on 60th, near Fifth Avenue—though I’ve been horrifically indolent in not getting to it until now. The eponymous Georgette is the lovely, dynamic Georgette Farkas, whom I knew for so many years as top functionary in the Daniel Boulud empire. I had no excuse for the first-time-ness of my visit. And now…I have no excuse for not going back soon! I loved it! Everything about this place says “France, real France,” in the most joyous way possible. Of course I grabbed that chicken for two off the rotisserie, and found it a perfect crescendo of crisp skin and juicy flavor. And the Beaujolais? Off the smart, food-lovin’ list of sommelier Amanda McCrossin came this gorgeous Fleurie. At two years old the party-hearty-aromas of Beaujolais can be in fade-phase, maybe en route to more serious things later. But not in this bottle! Gorgeous cherry-berry on nose and palate both. This is not a pre-dinner Beaujolais: it is impeccably dry, elegant, not at all blowsy. It is a light, classic, serious wine for food—especially roast chicken right now on a September evening!
Good Beaujolais being what is, this excellent Beaujolais will go terrifically with all kinds of other light meats and vegetables. What I’d avoid: don’t know if it has enough cushy fruit left for fish, and…any sweetness at all in the dish is probably not a good idea.