2008 Chablis Premier Cru,
Montmains, Domaine Philippe Goulley ($44)
I first met Philippe Goulley, a brilliant Chablis producer, at an organic wine fair in France in the winter of 2013. I was dazzled by the clarity in his Chablis…both in the younger, simpler ones (he makes an extraordinary Petit Chablis), and in the older Chablis from more heralded sites (his Premier Cru Chablis age gorgeously!) One of the big contemporary debates in Chablis is wood vs. no-wood; I discovered that this is an in-between house! Philippe’s father, who still makes wine with his son, is a traditionalist: no wood in his “projects!” But Philippe likes to experiment sometimes with Chablis in new oak barrels. However…the father is always there to keep Philippe’s use of oak restrained!
When we met, I was sure that Chablis of this quality was already being imported into the U.S. But, sacré bleu…it wasn’t! We proceeded to work out a deal…and I am so happy to say that I am now the exclusive importer into the U.S. of this great, food-lovin’ stuff!
Here’s one of my faves, just starting to open up with the magic of aged Chablis. An amazing picnic wine for the summer of 2015!
2008 Chablis Premier Cru, Montmains,
Domaine Philippe Goulley (organic)
A lovely Premier Cru Chablis, early in its aging arc. Seven years old, but surprisingly youthful-looking: light straw with glint of green. The nose is just beginning to come round the bend: hints of apple-like fruit remain, but the gunflint/mineral/wet stone dimension starting to grow. Much broader on the palate than Goulley’s Petit Chablis, of course…but still an elegant mouthful, beautifully balanced. Mouth-watering acidity helps a lot.
