David’s Wine of the Week: 2012 Chablis Saint Jean, Louis Max ($23)
With grapes preponderantly from limestone soil, this Chablis—a light straw in the glass—is subtle and come-hither in the nose, but a nice touch of wet stone grows with aeration. The palate is where I was sold: dry, with stunning electric acidity, just like it oughta be in Chablis. As an extra thrill, a few Meursault-like nutty notes finally develop in the glass. No barrel aging—cool and clean stainless steel all the way, allowing the Chablis soil to come through. Imported by Slocum & Sons, North Haven, CT
Wine4Food
I’m confident in this one as an oyster wine, but would gladly serve it with other shellfish, cooked fish (the acid will cut through), charcuterie, salads, roast light meats…a million things!
About the Producer
Burgundian negociant Louis Max has upped its game in recent years, adding a bold, new quality edge to its many wines. At a Louis Max tasting in New York recently, I loved best of all this clear, crisp village Chablis (Max puts the words “Saint Jean” on the label of the Chablis as a proprietary name.)
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