2008 Lorenzhöfer Riesling Spätlese Trocken, Weingut Karlsmühle, Mosel ($22)
“I have been a Karlsmühle fan for 30 years! Their wines were in the U.S. before…but now it falls to me to bring them back! I can think of no Mosel producer who’s better at lifting Mosel material to a higher level of ripe atrributes, including a richer mouthfeel. Outstanding.
“The extraordinary house of Karlsmühle creates Mosel wines with uncommon extract and concentration. This one, a light yellow-straw to the eye, features an amazingly succulent nose of ripe fruit, an almost buttery tenderness on the palate, and a subtle background of earth and funk. The peach-and-stone-fruit pizazz is multi-piled on the palate, with unctuous layers and nervy acidity. This is what German wine is all about. It’s the slightest touch off-dry, so keep in mind that it’s not an oyster wine—but a million fish, veal and chicken dishes, particularly in creamy sauces, will fall under its food-loving sway.”
– David Rosengarten
