2013 Durigutti Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($12)
I wanna love Malbec. I’ve been to many a cow-grilling in Mendoza, Argentina, and have thrown many, many gallons of Malbec over the gums. I’m happy enough when I’m there, but—despite the great popularity of this sturdy varietal among many of mah Fellow Amuricans—it doesn’t work that well for me on these shores. Why? The usual. It is Big, Fat Red Wine, with lots of alcohol, usually lots of tannin, sometimes lots of tactile oak. Occasionally, however, a Malbec comes along that’s not painful to drink…and this is it! Despite the weigh-in at 14% alcohol, the Durigutti Malbec is a plush pleasure, its edges covered up by a plethora of froooot. Soft and fuzzy-looking purple in the glass, already a lil’ bit light at the rim. Lovely young-fruit nose: plums, blackberries, subtle hints of vanilla, spice and licorice. Creamy in the mouth, the promise of the nose fulfilled in layers of robust, simple flavor. My favorite part is its acid-fed juiciness and its really low tannin count.
Wine4Food
My usual principle applies: this is not a wine for rare red meat. But give that meat some more fire—medium-cooked lamb chops, brisket, stews—and this velvety red will be delicious.
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